I will try to record each day 7 th July to 28 th July 2024 . It’s a journey of 1650kms and surprisingly ( cos I always think of Britain as flat ) 20,000 meters uphill climbing .So – it’s like biking Nelson to Takaka every day for 19 days – how did Britain get so many hills !

Day one – LandsEnd to Truro ( Cornwall). 66 kms 800 meters .

Left from lovely hotel at Lands end the southern most place in England . It’s cold and rain with temperature about 15 degrees – yes it’s summer !

With a bunch of about 20 riders most I know well from previous rides – all good people. I am rooming with Ray – probably the only guy I would feel comfortable with – we laugh and respect each other .

Today is a shakedown – only 66 kms and 4 hours riding via Penzance and tiny villages which would be picturesque if the sun was out but really look gloomy and in disrepair in the dark overcast day .

Day 2 Truro to Lancaster

Long day -6 hours riding – 90 kms but 1500 meters climbing .

Cornwall definitely has no flat land – it’s either up sharply or down – except where we went across a high moor and the head wind was so strong that the rain felt like hail on the face !

Biking mostly narrow like super narrow country lanes with towering hedgerows 12 meters high on both side – means there are no views but at least it keeps the wind off . As I ride I wonder at the waste of these hedge rows – at least 4 meters wide the pasture land lost for production must be bloody huge – nz farmers would straight away dig them out and put in a four wire fence- but I know it’s not allowed and the council would have farmers in jail for it – cos they aren’t farmers and mostly greenies that believe they are part of being British , provide for wildlife like badgers – remember Jeremy Clarkson going on about how nuts it was and how most of Britain is anti farming ! By the way the badgers carry TB which means the cows get it and have to be slaughtered- not fun for cows eh .

Anyway we enjoyed their shelter and occasionally there were some wild flowers and roses 🌹

Pics of the day follow

day 3 .Launceston to Tiverton – 88 kms and 1300 m climbing – rain

Watching the weather forecast on BBC this morning the lady announcing tried to be optimistic about the summer – the male announcer ripped out “ the weather is Rubbish really “ – yes !

So we started out in rain and finished in overcast with some drizzle – it’s crap !

But – not to underestimate the British – well in this area – polite and courteous, the best drivers ever ( will never try to pass unless the way is clear ) , and there is no rubbish on the roadsides or graffiti in the towns – how does that happen !

We crossed from Somerset into Devon today and I found myself thinking about Thomas Hardy as we saw villages like north tawton ( Somerset and Devon were often called Wessex) , where we stopped for picnic lunch , and Dorcester and Pentridge which was the setting for the novel Tess of the Durbervilles. I was a huge fan of Hardy when I was last year at high school and at Uni – read all his novels like Tess, Mayor if Casterbrige , and Jude the Obscure . They were dark and moody books – not in the violent sense but more “ man’s inhumanity to man “ . The hero’s were the underdogs mostly young women and the villains the landed gentry – I think the reason I related to the lowly was that they accepted their lot – the guiding hand of fate mostly disregarding religion . I probably voted labour back then – haha . But as Winston Churchill said “ if you didn’t vote labour at the age of 20 you have no heart but if you still are voting labour at 40 you have no head “ or something like that .

Stopped at Shin Falls – the river flowing strongly over the falls – and salmon leaping up – well the occasional one getting there – and proving the theory of the “ survival of the fittest “ . I am sure that if you aren’t Scottish and tried to live here you would have to be one of those rare humans that hate the sun – and love dark heavy cloudy days – everyday ! You have to admire the Scots – they love their country and climate . Hey this post above is seriously out of context- it’s got ahead of the story by at least two weeks – I reckon I am being tracked by AI and it has revealed itself 😎

Big day tomorrow to Cheddar

Day 4 Tiverton to cheddar 100 kms – 800 meters 5 hours biking .

Left Tiverton in rain but guess what sun came out about lunch time and lasted most of the afternoon . Road via Taunton and High Ham through into Somerset – with the sun and less climbing it was a good days biking – plus with lower hedgerows that in Devon and

Cornwall there were glimpses of the idyllic English countryside with huge trees on full leaf . Lots of ancient churches and buildings en route . Meet with Brad and Dan from ovation in cheddar for diner and chat .

Pictures below of statues at a house gate – only a man would put these up – imagine arriving home after a bad day at work to be greeted by these guys – it’s why the owner is a drunk 🥴

Gorgeous Somerset countryside now that the hedgerows are lower so we can see – they say the hedgerows are there cos they are good for wildlife but – I haven’t seen one “ roadkill “ on the whole trip so that’s another lie !

day 5 Cheddar to Clearwell – 92 kms 1300m – 5 hours 30 mins ride time – hard day out

Today was long – partly due to getting lost in Bristol trying to find a bridge across the Avon river which is 20 time as big as the Avon we know in Christchurch . The problem was we got diverted by a police blockade – they had found two suitcases with body parts in them on the Clinton suspension bridge that we were supposed to cross – and – finding another was a problem . Also Chris the guide is a slow rider and they are bloody annal about everyone riding behind them – it’s a f….kn pain cos the longer the day is the more everyone gets a sore bum!

Anyway into Wales briefly after crossing the spectacular Severn river bridge and into Wales with its crazy signs in Gaelic . Into Gloucestershire and the homes in the gorgeous countryside more lavish – but – still old and mostly dark – stone walls and slate roofs . Arrived at Tintel abbey ruins – looking a bit like Christchurch cathedral – a wreak !

High point today riding through the grounds of Ashton Court near Bristol – massive mansion and buildings and park grounds which were kingHenry the rights hunting lodge !

Looking forward to Alice arriving today and rest day in Worcester tomorrow – everyone tired 😴

day 5 – Clearwell Gloustershire to Worcester via Upton on Severn – 82 kms , 800 meters – 4hours 30 mins ride time .

Started out in rain and cloud – no sunshine today – pretty much the same crap weather we have had since starting .but the cycling was great through country lanes ( and guess what – the hedgerows are lower and even now and then a normal fence so views! ) – for the most part – highlight meeting Alice at Upton on Severn for coffee . I had for some reason thought she was biking through to Worcester with us but of course she had the car – do with us for the rest day tomorrow then biking through the following two days. Last 25 kms biking on my own but had wahoo and ride with Gps so no problem. Ride into the city along bike paths and down the riverside walk path was great . Wow -rest day ahead 😊😊😊

day 9 Worcester to Ironbridge – lovely day starting in the sun but afternoon on heavy cloud – as the English say “ it’s changeable “!

74kms 1000m and 3 hour .30 ride time – quieter day but still a few sharp climbs .

From Worcester to Bewedly for coffee and visit to quaint village then onto ancient pan at halfway then to tiny busy with tourists village of ironbridge .

Sunday today so guys out on motorbikes together and even a club of lambretta scooter riders – seems like it’s a fine day so it’s out for a drive or moto .

Sooo good to ride again with Alice – and nice surprise at how lovely Iron bridge is as never heard of it . It has a marvelous iron bridge built 1779 and is called the birthplace of the “ Industrial Revolution” using the power of the river and paddle drives to power bellows in the steel and iron making furnaces and pumps in the coal mines before electricity.

It’s here we saw the final of the Euro football with Spain v England . The place has gone nuts over the game and Sunday pubs full and high expectations of a win.

We went away from the Best Westetn in Ironbridge to try to find a gritty loud bar with some football houligans – but ended up at Swan and it was tense game – better team won – Spain 🇪🇸. The skill level of the players is just amazing 🤩

Always amazes me how heroic the British are in defeat – or is it stoic – they lose so much I guess they get over it quickly and we didn’t see one “ bad loser “ . l have to admit I am such a bad loser – just can’t take it – sulk and swear and “ bear head “ for ages . But here it’s a shrug and – oh well – wasn’t to be !

Like ques – the Brits actually like them / they just line up and start talking like it’s ok and it happens all the times – I saw a Que of 20 women waiting at the loo on Penzance just chatting away and happy as !

Day 10 Iron bridge to Hartford in Cheshire 88 kms 800 m climbing – 4 hour 30 mins biking .

Steep climb out of the valley at Ironbridge into lovely pastoral and crop farming areas ( wheat, barley , potatoes, and seed cropping ). Hedgerows are lower and so occasionally get magnificent views over the rolling hills .

Through villages and towns of Cheshire that I have never heard of like Nantwich ( Dumb name eh ) , Winford, little Wenlock – and one I did know we know Shrewsbury ( like the biscuit ) .

The mansions and estates are evident everywhere – plus – Range Rovers, porches and Lamborghini s all driven by hedgehogs The place stinks of wealth . Inherited not earned ! That’s about to change as we go into the black country tomorrow as we head to Garstang between Liverpool and Manchester via Warrington , Wigan and St Helen’s and Preston . This is worker territory and the old industrial heartland of England . No toffs here !

Day 11 Hartford to Mellor – Lancashire – 82 kms 700 m climbing – slow 4 hours 30 mins due riding through towns with traffic lights .

Started out in steady rain – ☔️- must be 10 days so far of rain at some point in the day – but compensation – the hedgerows have lowered and sometimes it’s four strands of wire so at last can appreciate the rolling countryside. But heavy grey clouds and cool ( 11-15 degrees) – the dullness exaggerated the grim towns as we move through Lancashire the old industrial area of Britain with rows and rows of coronation street style row housing – and in dark brown / black brick – it’s yuk ! Plus for some reasons the roads have deteriorated with potholes and breakups – reminds me of home – haha . So we pretty much biked straight through to the small town of Mellor close to the famous football towns of Bolton wanderers and rugby league stalwarts of st Helen’s and Wigan . We are just west of Manchester .

Away from the villages the landed gentry seem very comfortable in their mansions and discoveries !

Day 11 Mellor to casterton near Kirby- Lonsdale – 74kms 1200 m climbing – 4 hours 30 ride .

Up into the moorland of the Yorkshire dales and finally left behind the Hedgerows so we can see the beautiful rural countryside with livestock and hay making . Down from 400 meters on the moor to the Trough of Borland at Staidborn for coffee . On arrival at the market town of Kirby Lonsdale we walked over the “ devils bridge “ into town – a guy came up alongside me to ask about the journey and I said “ wow we got a hint of sun today – he said – enjoy it cos today is summer “!

Then onto the town and terrific icecream shop with all the flavours made from milk sourced from cows living within 3 miles of the shop – then on to the highlight “ ruskins view“ supposed to be the best landscape view in Britain – well it’s ok but the story with it is better .

Apparently the farm which in in the distance of the view wanted to extend the barn – council said no cos it would possibly spoil the view – far out . So the farmer then painted his barn in technicolor- kind of a f….k you moment – and the council had no power to stop him . Love it when the little guy gets his own back against the bureaucracy!!!!! See it in the pictures …………

Big days ahead 93 kms then 125 kms – ahhhhhhh.

Day 11 Casterton to Hall bank gate ( a tiny village with us staying at the only old pub called Belted Will !) 97 kms – 1400m climbing – 5 hours ride time . We have covered 1000 kms now of the 1700 km journey.

Lots of sharp hills but magnificent views over low stone walls as we ride in the Cumbria fells – like the foothills or fells of the Pennine mountains ( we would call them hills ) titled the “ spine of Britain) . We are close to Carlyle and the Lake District – and stopped for coffee at a small town which is the mid point of a walk from the west coat to the east coast of Britain – there were some ramblers as they call them on the trail .

Rolling country lanes through beautiful farms mostly pastoral and harvesting of hay and silage – houses have reverted to farm homes and buildings not mansions and play farms – vehicles are working trucks, landrovers, and giant tractors ( like Jeremy Clarkson Lamborghini! ) towering massive trailers with triple wheels and double deck livestock levels by rather than Discovery s- I haven’t seen a single stock truck NZ style – all the stock seems to move by tractor and trailer driven to market by the farmer – this is real farm and work !

No sun – only grey brooding skies and threat of rain – that guy yesterday on the devils bridge was bloody right – the hint of sun we got yesterday was summer – it’s passed by !

Finished the day at the pub with a Cronnenburg beer – nice .

Huge day tomorrow as we ride from England into Scotland – 125 kms and 1700meters climbing ! It’s ok cos it’s a rest day the day after .

day 12 Talkin ( Cumbria ) to Cardrona near Peebles ( Scotland ) . 123kms, 1700 meters climbing, 6 hours ride time – long day out !

Started biking early due forecast rain again . Short and Sharp ( like 15-20%) climbs for the first 50 kms until we reached the Scotland border which knocked the stuffing out of the guys on muscle bikes – but then the sun came out of an hour before heavy rain as we climbed to lunch stop at 70 kms . Not to worry – the higher we climbed the more it looked like central Otago – and – believe it – we started to run into names like Ekktrick, Cardrona and Aviemore . The settlers into Dunedin and central brought the names for the villages with them .

Great riding for the last 50 kms – smooth rides Soaring views and huge downhills at speed – love Scotland but just wish the heavy cloud and drizzle would bugger off – no wonder the Scot’s are so deadly pale !

It’s the weekend – everything in the nearby town including the essential laundrette is closed – for a festival of Scottish stuff in the afternoon – cancelled due rain forecast – oh well it’s laundry in the hotel bath and washing hanging everywhere trying to dry – 1st world problem eh ! just like the “ cloud strike” minor IT upgrade that just knocked out IT all over the world – USA all planes grounded , banks close, surgery cancelled – wonder what that coder and his implementation teams exit package is 😎. Rest day – yummmmm !

Day 13 Rest day – Cardrona and Peebles

Today was a kick back and relax – plus – get the weeks laundry done . Ummmm – the local laundromat has closed – due to – the one on Peebles is a labour unit down and closing at 1 pm , and the resort we are staying at doesn’t do laundry 🧺. Soooooo – it’s full the bath , wash the essentials and hang it all around the bathroom hoping it will dry ! Never mind – been there before but it is a real p…..s off !

But – found a great pub and Italian restaurant so simple food like spaghetti bol and prawn cocktail . Followed by a few beer and great sleep before we head off to Edinburgh and Kinross !

So the point is that I haven’t seen any old “ dunger” car in uk – why is that . By comparison nz average is over 14-15 years old – yes right up there with Estonia and Greece! I thought it might be because in uk it’s a requirement to have insurance ( and the insurance co won’t cover old dungers, or the MOT ( our WOF) is tougher – who knows – but we pick up in nz the old cars from UK and Japan which drive like we do on the left hand side . So the question is – are we wise or thrifty and make them last longer or are we just a third world country and poor ? I can’t decide 😊

Day 14 Cardrona ( Peebles Scotland ) to Kinross via Edinburgh – 95 kms and 900 meters climbing – almost 5 hours biking but it was very slow through busy Edinburgh.

Great days biking mostly on terrific bike tracks once we got into and north of Edinburgh – love to come back and ride here again as it’s a bikers city with many different trails .

Start out from the course at Cardrona was wet and cold – for the first 40 kms in the countryside and as we got higher was 10-11 and we max for the day at 14 – Nelson is warmer than this and it’s winter! But the Scot’s don’t care – we are all rugged up with gear and they are riding and walking around in tee shirts – I guess hoping for a ray of sunshine .

Biking into Edinburgh from the south was a bit bleak actually – poor housing and a surly guy yelling at me for not being in the bike path – but as we got past that – through a beautiful park where the locals were playing tennis in tee shirts and through the university district into the centre- George st – that changed . Many young people and hordes of tourists here for the “ fringe festival” – the uni makes a big difference to the age of the people !

Out through the “ Mayfair” of Edinburgh with posh row houses and secular st Mary’s church , onto bike paths north through the “ high rent “ district of mansions in huge grounds – there’s a strong smell of wealth in the northern are I haven’t seen anywhere else . Then onto your a little village at the forth bridge ( I remember this from school days as an engineering feat) across the firth .

Spectacular biking over the new bridge way up high and then onto through rolling country side of wheat and hay/ silage to Kinross – lovely small village that used to be the wool spinning and weaving centre of Scotland .

Welcomed to a really nice pub to stay with a Maserati coffee machine that makes the best macchiatos !yahhhh.

Day whatever ? Think it’s 15 – like 5 to go ! From Kinross to bridge of Cally via Perth and Blairgowie – quiet day 65 kms and 800 kms – gets bigger from here !

So left at 11 am – wow a sleep in ! As usual cold and threatening to rain – now I really understand why the British go to Spain, Portugal Italy , Croatia, Greece – in fact anywhere but Uk for their holidays ! It’s just total lack of sun – as we biked today through what , barley and potato field I said to one of the girls – “ you know why British potatoes taste different – why – it’s the lack of vitamin D ( from the sun ) – I explained it’s like the lack of selenium in Nz soils and why horses have to have supplements- so in Uk they have to give D to the spuds – haha – she believed me ! Got mr thinking about the mistake I made in buying some 50 + in landsend – sure as hell an unnecessary purchase .

Went to Scone castle for a look from the distance just north of Perth – very grand but we didn’t get past the man gate – tourist busses and ticket collectors there – as well as castle tours are just not on the agenda . but – site of the crowning of Scottish kings and Queens .

Scottish people are super friendly – in fact lovely – and the drivers all over UK are the best in the world for politeness and consideration to cyclists – safe as can be here ! So pics of the day .

day 16 Bridge of Cally to Tomintoul via Braemar and Balmoral castle ( summer residence of the royals ) – 97 kms , 1600 meters climbing , 5 hours ride time .

A really big day – four monster climbs up into the Scottish highlands – which got so steep in parts that the guys on non e-bikes had to get off and walk .

Got some sun today – weak – but yea it is there somewhere above UK . Lots of Scottish castles along the wai and then up into the ski areas high up in the highlands with national parks and heather . It’s cool – not much over 15 – but I guess we are getting north now having biked over 1200 kms – 4 days biking to go – Inverness tomorrow .

Pics of the day follow

Day 16 or 17 -Tomontoul to Inverness ( capital of the Scottish highlands ) – 85 kms 800 meters climbing 4 hours 30 – sloe quiet day – but we got SUN !

Love Scotland – it’s mellow . The hotel we stayed in at Tomintoil was like fawlty towers – except no Basil or she who must be obeyed . Run by older women who kindly took our damp laundry from days trying to get it dry and put it through their dryer no charge delivered to our room . But the kitchen was sooooo disorganised – chef great , food terrific , timing and organisation zero ! Never mind it was fun .

Yesterday Barbara Wilkins ( husband Jerry eminent heart surgeon from Dunedin and z good bastard ) went with Ralph the Braemar castle – she had a book put together by her mother when they lived in Motueka which traced her ancestors back to the 1500 and were owners of the castle and nearby balmoral as well plus huge estates . She had a picture of her great grandmother at the castle a hundred years ago – she thought she might be allowed to see inside / but was treated like royalty when the people there realised who she was – nice eh .

Biking today was quiet on zero traffic lanes across the heather uplands to Inverness – we arrived early do got the chance to get to z bar ( Hootnany bar ) with a couple of young guys banging out wonderful full on Scot’s music – loved it !

Three days biking to go – everyone’s legs are tired especially the guys on road bikes ! Pictures of the day follow

Two young guys in the Hootnannys bar singing and playing great music of Scotland . Loved our stay in Inverness !

Day 17 – Inverness to Lairg – 90 kms ,800 meters climbing , 4 and half hors bike time .

Started in cold strong wind – noted as we crossed the foot bridge to the city that a young woman pushing a bike had heavy woollen sweater and scarf – they know how to dress for summer .

Somehow the day went quickly – I think because the wind was a tail wind and climbing not severe – winding through the highlands on country lanes empty of traffic and breathing big lungs full of fresh pure Scottish air .

A few pictures follow

Day 18 Lairg to Bettyhill and first glimpse of the North Sea . Easy peasy day – 72 kms and 500 meters climbing with wind behind and mostly downhill – sooooo nice . Started out from Lairg in cold strong wind from the north west but it was either on the side or behind so not a problem – fastest ride so far so arrived at 1 pm only just over three hours riding !

We climbed from Lairg up into the high Scottish highlands – like central Otago but kind of round and not jagged – plus of course wet and green . No one around and just as well as it was a one lane sealed road with passing spaces every so often – drivers have deteriorated unfortunately as we go north with many not slowing down and bikers having to stop on the verge or scramble a bit to get away – not good really . I don’t think intentional and some like those towing caravans are just lacking experience – no excuse though for the local road maintenance guys who just barrel pass and don’t give a s….t .

Spectacular wide open views – and – threatening clouds but we lucked in again and only got some rain and cold wind in the last 10 kms.

Lots of history of land clearances of the “ crofters and subsistence farmers in the early 1800’s by – you guessed it Lords , kings and English sheep farming interests – some very nasty behaviour and further man’s inhumanity to man – as well as plain crime and brutality – some of which lead the perpetrators to the gallows in Inverness and Edinburgh. I took some pictures of a couple of explaining displays below – life was hard as hell back in the day – and many immigrated to USA, Canada and Australia if they could .

One day to go – journey is close to ending – one of the riders said she was sad it was coming to an end – I am sure others are relieved as their bum and legs are sore ! For me its great to be almost there – but in reality its not about starting at Landsend in Cornwall at the seas and finishing at John O’ Groats in Scotland at the sea – it’s about every day in the open air mostly alone , seeing and hearing different things and places most of which are new and interesting – as well as the people you are with and meet along the way – some eccentric, some stupid and annoying, some inspiring .

I love the Ernest Hemingway view on “ why do a Journey “ –

“ It’s good to have an end to journey towards; but it is the journey that matters, in the end .”

Pictures of the day follow –

Day 19 – last day – Betty to John o’ Groats and the end of the journey – 82 kms , 800 meters climbing – 4 hours .

Total for the journey 1700 km and 15000 meters climbing – so over 18 days it’s a bit like Nelson to Takaka every day with a couple of ready days – so everyone is pleased to get there safe and sound that’s for sure .

Started out with a celebration – Graeme Oakley is 83 today – he always wears orange socks – didn’t bike at all until 20 years ago when he biked the “ ride the 2000 Tour de France route “ trip with us in 2014 .

Rob Oakley had been on this journey to accompany him and last night gave everyone orange socks to wear for the final day as a celebration- nice eh !

Started out in SUN – hello – but soon reverted to heavy black clouds and temps plunged – we hit through with a little rain . Actually the weather could have been so much worse – no sun – but what if it rained everyday which it didn’t so “ look to the positive “.

Through Thurso and Reay – highlands and seascapes to JOG arriving about 2 pm – the kms now fly by – we are all a lot fitter and the distances seem small now rather than a challenge – but it’s the end the trip and last night together .

It’s actually a perfect night – hard to believe as I look out to the Orkney island from johnO’Groats that the evenings could be so calm and sunny at 9pm .

Biking – I heard a guy talking in radio nz just before I left – he had rode around the world twice – the interviewer asked him “ what is it about biking “. He said “ it’s the speed “ – long pause and interviewer asked why !- he said “well it’s just the right speed to see the surroundings you are riding through , hear the local sounds, and take in the fresh air “ .

And he is right 😊😊😊😊😊

Pictures of the day follow

Now to Milan …..,, and seeing darling Maree after three weeks.

But a celebration dinner of all the riders tonight so may post some more pics . It’s was Graeme Oakleys 83rd birthday today – that’s why we are all wearing orange socks in sympathy! Bloody good on him being an End To Ender at 83😎

End

Ps this is the days and Route through Britain .