Day one – Invercargill – 25 th October 2020

I will try to keep this blog going each day of the 42 days ahead – we are biking the length of New Zealand 3000kms and 20,000 meters climbing – if we make it .

Favourite ride – Kauri forests in Northland ❤️

It’s covid 19 and the world is locked down – weird that a virus can change so much including zero overseas travel and lives on hold for probably a year – so – With Ralph and the crew organising from global cycle tours we decided to not sit around waiting !

As the days go by I will detail the crazy buggers on the trip ( and …. there are some nut cases for sure ) and the events with some pics of I can . 😎

DAY 1 Invercargill to Bluff Hill and return

65 kms 3 hours – gale Nor west wind made the first half nice the last half f…n hard work as the wind gusts tried to grab the front wheel n tip me off .

Apologies to anyone born in bluff – one of the only thing good about it is the oysters ! It’s the the wild west really – a good place for Jacinda to start by bowling most of the housing and starting again. Lovely views from the old town though across the harbour to to picturesque Tiwai aluminium smelter.

To cyclists Bluff Hill has meaning – the pro cyclists race up it in the tour de Southland – but to ride it is torture – only 300 – meters climb but all over 15% with stretches 20%+ – wow – even the pros without a granny gear have been known to walk that part and pass their mates still riding .

Pics follow of the crew on this trip – one or two under 60 and overall they are not a pretty bunch – if there was ever a beautycontest this lot would fill all the bottom place – that is except the 4 women – they are great !

Video from top of Bluff Hill looking over towards Stewart Is in NW gale
Start point at bottom of SI of New Zealand
9 am departure day 1 – from Kelvin Hotel Invercargill with the new “ tour de long white cloud tops !
Bluff oysters !

Day 2 Invercargill to Tuatapere – 97 kms , 500 meters , 4 hours 30 plus coffee stops along the way .

100 mls of rain last night was a wake up call but apart from the cold trailing SW most of today we didn’t get wet .

Ralph’s usually reliable plotting and nav skills were absent – GNA! We did 20 kms on shingle between Invercargill n riverton – at one point after 25 kms we got to a signpost which said 8 kms to the left to Invercargill and 25 kms to the right to Riverton – we had been riding an hour and a half to cover 8 kms – figure that.😂

It all came right after Riverton called by southlanders the “ Rivera of the South “ which in a SW cold wind and cloud requires considerable imagination.

The seascapes from there on were wonderful with surf beaches having weird names like tikaha, Pahoa,cozy nook, and Orepuki.

The Southland blunt was to the fore at the coffee stops – like get your helmet off the counter and go outside ! Dont you love it !

Tuatapere- ah don’t blink – you through it 😎

20 kms of shingle road on skinny tires – not good 😎

Shingle = punctures !
Lovely busy cafe 15 kms from Tuatapere out in the lonely SW
Amazing surf beaches on the SW coast with the sea coming in direct from Antarctica!

Day 3 – Tuatapere to Mossburn 98 kms 700 meters 5 hours.

Started light rain and cold – so an old bike racing guy Eric Ross from Christchurch reckons 10 degrees or below you wear long pants to cover your thighs and knees .Also if it’s 10 where you are standing it is 5 degrees once you start riding – wind chill . So today was wet gear on !

Out to Otautau for coffee – lovely little town with war memorial looked after like small towns do , through to Nightcaps an old coal mining town – it’s the pits , then long push in the wind to Mossburn .

Highlight of the day was “ crash tackling “ a lamb which had got out through fence and was terrified on the main roads with mumma bleating in the paddock – little bugger was about 3 times as heavy as Boycey and strong – anyway once I was on top of him and had hold of his front legs it was just lifting him and not snagging the barbed wire- mum and lamb in the paddock and loving it.

That got me thinking about things – like how the greens hate farmers !

And how in Covid 19 lockdown farmer and food processors kept working, shipping, and earning FX so the central Auckland greenies can import the best coffee beans for their latte. I heard that the greens pulled a swiftly in the Auckland central election of Cloe – by having the uni students all put their residence as central Auckland rather than where they really came from and should have voted – also some voted 14 times – shifty!!!!

Anyway I digress- Southland does apparently produce 20% of nz exports from 5% of the population – and riding through its amazing – it rains every second day – you can hear the grass growing !

It also got me thinking about global warming – and – nz response like the zero carbon legislation ,carbon pricing, and anti farming being taught in schools .

So the issue is that the science has been slanted to support the conventional wisdom – that nz needs to do its bit in the fight against global warming and farming is the culprit- such bullshit !

But few scientists and journalists are prepared to go against the tide.

Nz produces a nett 0.81% of the worlds carbon – about 30 m tonnes equivalent . It’s about the additional carbon China produces each year from the 5-6 new coal fired power stations they build- similarly India – and in the USA government subsidies to fossil fuel producers like fracking for political purposes far exceed nz ,s carbon output .

And then there is farming – but hang on – a recent scientific report has been done which turns on its head the notion that farmers are to blame – it’s because the measurement of carbon output using international rules exclude most trees already on farm properties – only plantations of exotic trees “ pine” ,and over 1 hectare of trees are counted because when this all started the satellites cameras were not sufficient powerful to zero in on anything less that a hectare !

So if all the bush and trees on beef and lamb farms are properly counted for sequestration of carbon absorption it makes most farms carbon neutral !

But that notion doesn’t suit the green argument or measurement – am I just a cynical bastard ?

So these thoughts are rushing through my mind as I ride – also article 2 of the Paris accord – article 1 says nations must do what they can to reduce carbon output – but – article 2 says not at the expense of food production . The greenies won’t discuss that one as they push for forestry to replace farming !

My pics of the day

Spring comes late in Southland
Otautau- small towns look after their war memorials
The trees that don’t get countered!
John “ the old goat “ Warren loves his beer

Day 4 Mossburn to Queenstown ( via gravel road – mavora lakes road to Walter peak to meet the Earnslaw ferry ) – 101kms ,900 meters, 6 hours biking !

A hard day on tracks and shingle – as Steve would say –

“Some things you do only once”

But the reward is spectacular views of the mountains and lake wakatipu between mt Nicholas station and Walter peak (pic follow ).

The early start was in freezing Southland mist out of Mossburn and on the new “John Keys “ bike trail to meet the shingle for the ride .Huge spectacular landscapes through stations – sheep all with lambs at foot and cows with new calves – it’s spring !

Boring for much of the ride till the downhill at Vons peak and then the fab part around the lake . Almost beer time – my legs need TLC and rehydration !

Shingle and freezing mist – bye bye Southland – you are weeks behind in letting spring in !
Beautiful eh – I mean the sign – big downhill ride – 😋 yum
Where else can you see this – it’s the end of the lake only really seen from Walter peak . Hey see the bike rider in the sky looking down on me !
Video of wakatipu!
TSS Earnslaw coming to pick us up – built 1912 – fab eh !
Welcome coke – we all underestimated food and drinks – what we needed – so all pretty stuffed as we had to be at the ship at 2:30 – worth it that’s for sure !

Day 5 Queenstown to Wanaka via the Crown range ( nz’s equivalent of the the famous French Alps climb “Alped’Heuz” – but more on that later – 80 kms ,1000 meters, 5 hours .

So how does an 18 year old get that much talent !

So this video is of course on the wharf at Queenstown – a very few New Zealanders wandering around but really it’s dead as- the stores are empty and staff are super helpful – apparently cos with so little business they are doing daily “ customer service training “ on line . The staff are seriously good .

So in class the other day the teacher asked “ who is the minister of tourism ?”

No Jonny it’s not Shane Jones – he is the “ minister of lolly scrambles”.

Finally a correct answer – Kevin Davis – heard of him or seen him ? No – well no one else has either . He is also minister of corrections which figures because he is the minister of “ lock up “ right !

There are 400,000 people directly or indirectly employed by tourism 14% of working New Zealanders feeling like they have been thrown under a bus by COVID-19 plus no voice of leadership from their minister or the Wellington bureaucracy. Kelvin must be begging Jacinda to take him off tourism please.

But really ,there is zero initiative- what about different dates north and South Island for school holidays , or something other than “ be kind” like allowing in long term tourists ( like 3 months plus ) that are prepared to quarantine for 14 days, and same for international students – it’s crazy we shut them out – but there is nothing so that 18 year old plays on the Queenstown wharf to a thinning audience !

Oh lastly Kelvin is also minister of small business – get that !

Riding out of Queenstown towards Arrowtown – didn’t realise last time I drove it there were so many hills ! Anyway – riding past the golf course there reminded me of Jim Anglem who has a crib there- his favourite golf course – not ! Now I understand why – dotted around all over the course are these small hills or outcrops of schist ( no not shit ) – but it must feel like shit when your ball hits one and ricochets off never to be found ( like shrapnel in a slaughterhouse ) . Actuality that happened – I was working for Canterbury frozen meat company in the 70’s and out at Belfast plant one day in the beef slaughter – so at the commencement of the process the cattle beast has to be rendered unconscious – he walks into a steel box and gets zapped with a captive bolt on the forehead – on very rare occasions when the side of the box is lowered he jumps out – can be cos he’s got big horns and the guy doing the stun job missed – but this day a bloody huge bull jumped out mad as hell with a very sore head – he’s gunning for anyone he sees including me – Forman dives into the office and comes out with a 303 and tries shooting the bull and in panic misses- he lets of 10 shots and the bullets ricochet off the stainless steel equipment as guys dive for cover with the shrapnel wizzing all over – the beast got out and was last seen heading down state highway 1 towards Christchurch -no bloody health and safety in those days !

I asked myself – what’s a junior accountant doing in this place !

Anyway – I digress – this thought in my mind as I pass Jim’s golf course .

Just after Arriwtown is the start of the crown range road . 800 meters climb over 11 kms and much of it over 10% – its a grind – and really New Zealand’s equivalent of the French mountain pass called Alpe ‘dHuez which is 13.8 kms long and about the same meters climb – and the crown range to the pass took me 2 hours biking .

Get this – the alpe d’ heuz is so famous it’s a legend in each years Tour de France – the fastest time up is 38 mins by my hero “ the pirate – Italian Marco Pantini “ in 1997. The 5 fastest times are between Pantini and American Lance Armstrong 1997-2001 when everyone was drug cheating – in fact of the top 35 times recorded 25 of them were later declared drug cheats !

The first one not a drug guy is 2015 Nairo Quintana the Colombian in 39 mins 22 seconds – so that puts my 2 hours into perspective eh !

Although I have to say Pantini was under 65 kgs at the time and never ever played front row prop for the Shirley under 14 rugby league team either.

Pics of the days ride follow –

Arrowtown golf course with its hills of Schist
crown Range with its 21 hairpins – new Zealand s “ Alpe d’Heuz”
Famous Cardrona pub for lunch
Richard and I at the top of the pass on Crown Range
Ahhhh – beautiful Wanaka looking across to mount Aspiring
The late great Marco Pantini 1997 fastest time ever up Alpe D’Heuz in the French Alps.

Day 6 Wanaka to Makarora- 65 kms , 700 meters , 3 hours ride tome

Very wet – west coast rain and northerly head wind .

Quiet afternoon drying out – and waiting for the All Blacks v Australia rugby game – start time 9 pm nz time !

High point of today – wet weather gear did the trick !

Richard and I leaving Wanaka with wet weather gear on – apparently each 1 kms towards the west coast from the end of lake Hawera the annual rainfall increases 10 inches per km! Yep ☔️
Looking towards the souther alps from Lake Hawera – rain ahead

Day 8 Makarora to Haast 80 kms , 700 meters, 3 hours 40 mins and zero time in the red zone

So the distinguishing thing about this 80 kms is there is nothing but Bush ! No cafes,petrol stations , or McDonald’s for nearly 4 hours – talk about withdrawal symptoms . I have vague memories of the Haast pass road being opened to link the southern west coast to Otago – so it must be over 60 years ago – it was talked about them with fear – of breaking down and the isolation from any rescue.

I have ridden this 20 years ago but in the north to south direction with Steve , Terry, and Bill Nosssiter ( kit was supposed to be there but got waylaid with a crook elbow in Greymouth) . It seemed a whole lot harder climb way back them through the “ jaws of Haast pass “ than this time and the millennium bike trekkers back then called it a day at Lake Hawera. Maybe it’s because it was pissing down all the way today so you couldn’t see the mountains towering above . We are “Disparately seeking sunshine “although at one stop for a drink Bob was heard to mention that he preferred the mist in the hills wafting around and across the Lansdowne and Haast rivers – absolute bollocks eh – it’s because he’s from northern England and they never see the sun there.

Last nights game – all blacks v wallabies – an old fashioned trashing by the ABs 48 to 5 – nice !

Today’s highlight – the “ hard Antler“ cafe and bar and latte in Haast !

Oasis in the rain ☔️

Haast river and snow on the tops

The famous top of Haast pass – one side the west coast the other Otago
Wheel on each province
Feels like Jurrasic Park – Bush to the edge of the road and no one to come to the rescue !

Day 9 Haast to Fox Glacier – 122 kms,1000 meters climbing, 5 hours 40 mins .

Had all the makings of a huge day out but turned out great – sunny, good roads and zero traffic / trucks and spectacular scenery!

Not to say it wasn’t a toss up between what hurt the most over the last 10 kms – feet, legs or ass. Ass won – but I guess almost 6 hours on the saddle is sure to rub – haha

High point of the day – great latte and toastie salmon, cream cheese , and tomato sandwich at the salmon farm at 60 kms .

Pics to follow

At lake moeraki between the southern alps and west coast . Graeme passing by – he is 80 next year and his only worry today is whether his two batteries will last the 120 kms .
Gorgeous dead quiet scenery
Looking out to the Tasman sea across rugged beaches
100 shades of green – the yellow buttercups there only concession – would the Hawke’s bay farmers love all that grass
At Fox – rehydrating – with Albie and Mike – these guys pretty pleased with getting 120 kms done – big trucks in Lycra!
At Fox Glacier looking up into the alps across the glacier waters flowing to the sea

Day 10 Fox Glacier to Harihari – 85 kms- 1000 meters climbing- 4 hours 30 mins ride time.

We started super early – 6.30 am – to try to get to Harihari before a storm and big rain due about midday – whew made it with a hour to spare cos it’s pissing down !

Big steep climb out of Fox with heavy cloud cover and mist in the mountains – must be one of the compensations for living in south westland – no one around and spectacular mountain views . Great latte at Franz Joseph Glacier before pushing on to Whataroa – now that little town looking the worst for wear has history.

In the late 90’s I remember running with the flushing meadows early morning team around Hagley Park in Christchurch as we did every day at 6am and Richmond was talking about whataroa – it’s about 100 kms south of Hokitika and isolated so hard to get to – no problem – Richmond flew down from Christchurch by helicopter each time he wanted to visit a business there he was involved with – a timber mill processing natives like rimu and beech .

Must have been a great business until the whole thing got thrown under a bus by the first Helen Clark government of the early 2000’s – complete stop on milling natives – from memory there was $100 m of taxpayers money thrown at the west coast to compensate – not much of it to the businesses and workers shut down – mostly to councils under a cooperation agreement to encourage small businesses – which it did mostly tourism related – now also stuffed !

Poor west coast – big natural hydro resources like small scale hydro electricity using water, agriculture ( dairying), coal mining, gold mining, and timber – all things that labour and greens hate.

Jucinda just announced the new cabinet team – guess what – I mostly approve – haha how about that . Tighten up the responsibilities so no one can hide eh – and exit door for some no hopers like Eugene Sage, Julianne Genter, Phil Twyford, David Clark. Hospital passes to Stuart Nash ( tourism and small business) , and Andrew Little who I really like but as minister of Health trying to reform in the face of huge DHB and vested interests like PSA and salaried medical staff – bloody good luck to you mate. One negative – David Parker ( gets fishing and oceans as well as environment and reform of RMA) – life is about to get difficult for fishing !

And finally leaving housing with Megan Woods – it’s labour Achilles heel – she won’t drive the big calls that are needed to make housing affordable and cut out the red tape – they haven’t the guts to admit the private sector won’t do low cost sections and building – only state housing on govt owned land on a huge scale with legislation to circumvent council red tape will difference make a difference – anyway that’s my view.

Great to see Nania Mahuta and Ayesha Verrall given big roles – positive plus !

Pic of the day

Franz Joseph Glacier and the river from glacier base heading out to sea.
Beautiful lakes and streams.Yester day it was the sound of the birds as you rode by today it was the constant sound of water – streams and rivers pure.

Low cloud and mist In the hills
Timber banned ( even selective logging to keep the jobs) , but tourism business replaced it – Covid 19 has closed them too
Great to be here !

Day 11 Harihari to hokitika via Ross. 72 kms -500 meters climbing-3 hour 30 mins ride time . rain ☔️ ☔️ ☔️

Was always going to be wet ! Heavy west coast rain from the get go in Harihari but not cold ! Coffee in Ross and lunch ( whitebait – yum) in Hokitika.

I remember someone saying that rain on the face was great for the skin – so with a norwest headwind and rain in the face I should have the purest skin ever.

Actually while not fun it was ok but the views were behind the clouds . You know when you spend a lot of time alone riding you spend a lot of time thinking !

Especially with hill climbing the riding groups get broken up as each person rides his own level – anyway so – thinking.

Today it was about my old dad who passed on over 20years ago aged just 69 – the last few years of his life were restricted as he spent much time in PMH and Christchurch public hospital and then the final retirement village – and – there was no outside access with that hot , moist air that is always in hospitals – although he never said I wished I could have taken him out into the rain or frost so he could feel the real world on his skin – the fags got him and he knew all along that was the case.

So it’s fantastic to feel rain wet and wind cold on the west coast !

Pics follow

Middle earth and LOR scene with rain and cloud in the valleys near Ross
Wet wet in the mountains
Yep it’s true – one old guy at Harihari pub was very down – the whitebait season had been closed early – he reckons they have “ got it in for the coast”
Marees recipe too !
Can’t have a rain forest without rain – right

Day 12 Hokitika to greymo – 40 kms – 2 hours. Weather appalling driving rain and strong gusting north west headwinds .

What can I say – crap riding !

Highlight was getting to greymouth and shower .

Wet weather gear on big time at Hokitika
It got worse !

People need a medal for living on the coast I reckon.

Oh other high point – was not looking good in the USA presidential election last night with Donald Trump ahead in the electoral college votes in the race for 270 out of 638 to win . But😊😊😊 this morning Biden is not far off beating that awful tosser with 254 having won Arizona and Michigan ! Yahhhhhhh😎 no

Day fourteen . Greymouth to Charleston- 76 kms, 1000metets, 4 hours .

Pretty grey all day with drizzle and low cloud – but spectacular coast scenery and Bush . Lots of climbing but worth it for the views . Finished up at the Hellers “ Bach“ at Charleston overlooking a lovely enclosed bay – dinner there tonight and last all blacks v wallabies gameof the year .

Highlight of the day – arrival of darling Maree and boycie & savvy . All three all over me – the love that a dog gives is just unbeatable – complete devotion and unconditional trust !!

Oh and also looks increasingly like Trump will be shown the door – the ugly American is now threatening to sue rather than admit he has lost and retire gracefully 😞

Pics of the day to follow

On the beach at rapahoe – history here eh Steve – remember the pub in the following picture – with huge lump of coal in the fireplace ! Millenium men 20 years ago
Rapahoe pub
Gorgeous rugged surf coastline between greymouth and Westport
Punakaiki pancake rocks – no blowhole today – tides not right !
Charleston bay -this tiny settlement today was a booming gold rush town in the 1880s . The bay below Toddys “ Bach “ was much deeper then and sailing ships would come through this entrance to anchor. But – the gold sluices silted up the bay but making it safe for kids swimming!

Marion and Todd a beautiful Bach – where 25 will fine this evening!
Gin deck at the end of marions walk

Day sixteen. Murchison to Nelson ( kohatu) 75kms, 700 meters climbing, 3 hours 30 mins ride time.

Soooo good to be biking home today for Maree s birthday , and rest day after the party at Harry’s Bar , before crossing over to the north island.

Also feels different to be leaving behind the part of the journey where all the rivers flow west ! Something about the countryside , Bush, and weather – it just feels warmer and the sun has been found .

Followed the mighty Buller river all the way to the source at lake Rotoiti – what a magnificent river from east to west through the southern alps – god knows how a road would have been put through if the Buller hadn’t carved it out .

There is a reason Nelson with 2500 hours of sunshine and no 1 in nz . It gets more sun and less wind !!! I think Invercargill gets 1500 hours – must check it out .

So leaving the west coast here’s what I will miss – whitebait, friendly people that say “ how u’ er going” to strangers, big mountains and rivers, spectacular Bush, sounds of water and birds as you bike along, no traffic – and that feeling that the people of the coast are self sufficient and a little crazy to stay there.

Here’s what I won’t miss- sandflies, every day rain n wind, fried food , some awful housing !

The Buller river near its source and 200 kms through the mountains to the sea
Looking towards the mountains near Nelson still with snow.
Almost home – lunch at kohatu pub . This is the northern most point we go to on the South Island. From here it’s to Picton in a South west direction.

Day 20 Havelock to Picton and across Cooks Straight to the North Island. 40 kms ,400 meters 2 hours ride time.

the most beautiful ride around Queen Charlotte drive with views at every minute up the malbourgh sounds . kenuperu sound and Queen Charlotte sound.. I have ridden this section before going from Picton to Havelock but today was soooo much better on the seaward left hand side and into the sun.

feels strange to be back on the move after a couple of days in party mode , with friends having a great time for marees birthday in Trafalgar st and Harry’s.Then for a big breakfast with the riding crew at our place before biking to havelock and Picton.

Sad to be leaving Maree and the boys for another 3 weeks – boycey wonders where I have buggered off to !

Nelson looks terrific ! Coming in through the waterfront baryons rocks road in the sun and warm especially heading home after 3 weeks to 75 Davies dr and to darling Maree and the boys . ❤️❤️❤️❤️

kenepuru Sound
Queen Charlotte Sound
Tui feeding at the side of the road – beautiful
Bye bye South Island – hello Cooks Str
Boycey waiting in the stairs for me to come home 🏡

Day 21 Wellington to Greytown 100 kms,800 meters, 6 hours .

Left early from CBD via parliament ( one there and that’s the norm ) , and onto the motorway to Lower Hutt down what’s called by cyclists the “ wall of death “ – not good with cars close at 100 kms . On tracks from Seaview up the Hutt river in stronger and stronger NWWinds which finally turned gale by the time we reach trenthem .

Group split into roadies over the SH 2 Remutaka hill and off road via the Remutaka rail trail through the fell rail tunnels to come out about 20 kms east of Featherstone .

It was one of those “ never to be forgotten “ rides – huge winds and gusts – at Siberia there is a swing bridge – I have never been in wind that was so strong you couldn’t move forward walking . The trail was fantastic – I expected a hard out single trail but it was flat and only the last two kms single – but the wind – f…n ouch !

A couple of the light weights couldn’t ride it and tried to walk – got picked up by a farmer – the rest battled and lucky there were no cars cos we were allover the road and verge- “ bloody character building “ . Ray going over the SH 2 got blown off and over the barrier .

I can say that there are few times when being heavy is an advantage – all the lightweights got blown off their bikes !

great to reach Featherstone and kind of tail wind then to greytown and much needed beer . Bloody all blacks lost 25 to 25 to Argentina – the world is coming to an end !

Parliament – place of hot air😎
Our Wellington guide Roberto and Jonathan
The flying sausage and toothpick – it’s true- ray joined us in Wellington – at the hotel Todd Heller said “ godfather Ray – now stand up straight cos I have got something stuck in my tooth – I am going to pick you up and use you as a toothpick – nice eh !
My one day old gorgeous Colnago – it’s brilliant – thanks village cycles
Swapping bikes for the mountain bike section at Kaitoke
Ralph and John Warren at the summit of Remutaka trail
On swing bridge at Siberia – 90 kms gusts and impossible to walk !
Lights needed to ride through the tunnels

Day 22 what a different planet from yesterday even though the All Black lost to Argentina 😰😰😰

Lovely soft warm sunny day – NW late in the ride but great riding . 75 kms 500 meters, 3 hours 30 mins .

After great breakfast of bubble n squeak off into the green and lush wairarapa countryside – first stop Martinbourgh – very busy with Wellington elite all driving new BMW, Audi, jap junk and occasional Maserati.also gangs of girls out for wedding showers – coffee was a battle – 40 min wait. Then on to to great pub on a river for lunch – late and also crowded . No recession here but apparently a festival weekend for the wairarapa that got cancelled but the people said bigger it – we are still coming !

Wairarapa looks terrific – not the dead, dry burnt grass and desperate people I remember – but I guess it’s early summer 🌺

Lunch with the locals at Gladstone pub – nice !
Charging 😎

Day 23 .Masterton to Palmerston North 122 kms , 1000 meters , 5hours 40 mins .

A big day through Alfredton and paihiatua so one of the longest and with constant NW wind hardest days . I heard that the reason the “tour d Aotetaroa race”each year goes from cape rienga to Bluff is South!is that the prevalent prevailing in NZ is north west – bugger – too late for us to change !

But I have to say i have forgiven the wairarapa – I said before it was a dry arid burnt planet that I had to drive to at Waingawa near Masterton in the late 70’s and early 80’s when Borthwicks the British meat company I was GM for owned-a plant there ( and closed ) . But the northern area through the Tararua ranges that we biked through was great and full of livestock.Also the road was sooooo quiet- why cos in 89 kms there wasn’t a shop,pub or sign of civilisation except a lovely school at Alfredton . One other reason other I really disliked the Wairarapa other than the hot dry drive ( before aircon in cars), was there was and probably still is a group of “ landed gentry “ on huge estates that I had to deal with occasionally- Biddeford, Ridderfords, and the still in love with “ mother England “ Borthwick family and hangers on “ who lived there . They exuded superiority and upper class and old wealth that was a disgrace to egalitarian NZ and me from Shirley . They went to prep boarding schools like Hadlow in Masterton and thenprivate fee paying high schools like Christ college and wanganui collegiate where they were educated that they were priveledged and entitled, and better NZers than the rest of the riff raff-

Problem is – many were incompetent tossers in fast cars that the new economic order of the 1980’s wiped out – no tears 😎

Through to Pihiatua for lunch and then over the famous and steep Pihiatua track into Palmerston North – poor old Palmey – always cold and windy with a bad reputation richly deserved it’s one redeeming point being Massey uni with huge numbers of young people and great agriculture education and research . Whew glad to be here 😀

Jim from Wangarei I before leaving Masterton on sunny morning . Jim is very eccentric- I live eccentric people – he takes 1000’s of photos apparently mostly of his bike ( no joking ) and is passionately in love with his bikes- nice eh!
Rural humour – Cindy is of course short and probably not very respectful reference to our PM Jacinda Ardern.

Day 24 Fielding to Whanganui – 65 kms, 500 meters, 3 hours .again strong NE and Westerly wind . Stayed overnight with John Signals at his lovely place in Fielding and had a zoom board meeting with Ovation before riding through on my own . Now in the green and mostly flat Manawatu so no issues until getting to Tuakina and onthe SH 6 for a nasty dangerous 20 kms ride over the hills into Wanganui – the one saving grace was a wide shoulder to try to get away from the crazy high speed cars and trucks – but there was no avoiding the huge truck and trailers – they create a kind of vacuum “ like there must be around Trump Towers “ without the evil of Trump” which sucks bikers when there are high cross winds into the Gap between the bike and the 110 kms monster passing – scary and bloody dangerous – so relieved to hit Whanganui and bike down the trail next to the mighty river that defines the town . It’s old and full of repurposed elegant buildings – nice place – must have been rich at the turn of last century – 1900- and probably full of entitled tossers as well !

The crew all at dinner and looking forward to “ rest day “ tomorrow.

China carbon emissions – Honestly what can a tiny island nation on the last bus stop in the world do you make any difference about CO2

Day 26 whanganui to pipiriki and then by jet boat to “ the bridge to nowhere “ and lodge. Big day 75 kms , 500 meters , 6 kms wall from “ the landing “ to Bridge . Exceptional day in places in Nz I have never been to .

Out from Whanganui on a fine morning with a trailing SW up the rear – so nice to have the wind behind and heading up roads with zero traffic to pipiriki. Half way there was a highlight – an old school house turned into a coffee shop with an old Maori lady running it – this area is sooooo isolated – just no one there and we are riding up the spectacular Whanganui river which in the early days provided the only way of getting from Wellington to Auckland. One highlight – Jerusalem – tiny settlement above the river with a sign saying visitors aren’t really welcome in the village ! Went up to the beautiful little church thinking about James K Baxter 1936 – 1972 -aged 46 and probably nz ‘s best known modern poet. A rebel from the beginning and alchoholic, Christian convert , pot smoker. Went to Jerusalem in 1968 after a vision and lived a Spartan life under the wing of the nuns later firming a 25 member commune tripling the pop of the village. Like all kids in Nz we struggled with the poems – way to esoteric for 12 year olds!

The church and ninety were peaceful and surprising outstanding on a hill – first time and probably last to Jerusalem- actually probably more nzers been to the big dirty disputed place of the same name 10000 kms away – good luck to them – I know which one I prefer .

Arrived at pipiriki thinking that’s the end of the day – ahhhhhh – no – onto jet boat to head 25 kms up the river to then walk through to the BTNW for an educational on a bizarre and unfortunate episode in early political opportunity . After the WW 1 the nz govt decided to open up a isolated and densely Bush covered steep sided valley to returned soldiers – they promised a road in which never happened -42 families somehow tried to carve out farms – most walked out bankrupt . The 99 years leaseholds were terminated in 1943 and the remaining 3 families dispossessed . The whole thing a disaster for the poor buggers who tried to make a living – so hard and in the harshest of environments- and another example of govt and civil servants messing up big time . Huge cost – but hell it still happens now – govt projects with poorly defined outcomes leading to failure but no one is responsible are they . It’s a spectacular untamed area of unspoilt Bush and river .

The lodge is a 1950’s building with kind of backpackers accomodation – Great food – but like everything built at the time – cold / so early to bed to get warm !

Heading out of Whanganui
The Maori coffee shop in an abandoned school
Jerusalem with church on the hill – James k is here somewhere
Great to see – the church at Jerusalem
Heading up river to bridge to nowhere
Bridge to nowhere lodge
What a bloody disaster ! 42 families tried and failed encouraged by incompetent bastards in Wellington .

Day 27 – Pipiriki to Tongariro National park ( with 25 kms on the Ohakune – Hirohito on the old coach road trail MYB track ) – 80 kms, 5 hrs 3o mins, 1500 meters climbing .

Hard day but great biking on zero traffic road and in the sun – gorgeous views of mt Ruapehu and towards the end mt Tongariro. The Mtb track was a bit rougher than expected ( no problem for the specialised levo but the guys on gravel bikes struggled and then the climbing to National park to finish the day hot and dry – beeeeeer !

Calendar pic of Mt Ruapehu
Half the crew doing the Mtb track “Old coach road from Ohakune
Tongariro looking gorgeous
smash Palace – hectares of car wrecks in the country side on the plateau- scene of the little yellow mini in “ pork pie”
Hello Boycey – love you more

Day 28 Tongariro to Taumarunui and start point for the timber trail track 75 kms ,500 meters and 3hours 30.

East day but frustrating – tail wind and sun – fast start 30 kms per hour over rolling country good roads to Taumarunui on the main trunk line for lunch – then group split into three for the accomodation – we were all booked at the start of the track – but covid cancelled it almost at the last moment . Apparently the owners are a young couple and the wife was French and at home when covid struck – so she wasn’t granted entry cos she is not married – wow is this 2020 – so the young nz guy was left here to try to run their business – he gave up and closed it even though the track is in high demand with NZers

BBQ nz style – fab night

Day 29 Timber trail – now this is very special – a beautiful ride through fabulous nz Bush mostly pungas, ferns and big native trees . 50 kms on single tracks and rail trail never over 5% from onguerue to piropiro to the Timber trail lodge heading north . 800 meters and 3 hour 30 mins .

Lots of groups of young people on the trail and families – it’s testing but doable for most people .- maybe with some walking .

Beautiful

Day 30 . second day of timber trail mountain bike ride the lodge to piropiro – Then on road for 35 kms to Mangakino .- so 75 kms, 1000 meters climbing, 5 hours ride time.

Well I never thought I would say this – but today was “ the very best days Mountain biking I have ever had “ yep – I have had more scary and more challenging and faster rides but none that matches this for beautiful forest scales, and sunny surprises – the magnificent native trees and standing giant totora , Miro,rimu, and later in the ride kowhai with stands of punga are amazing . It’s grade 3 so some steep grades (20%+)and clay tracks in places with holes but overall challenging but on the east side.it’s a bucket lister for anyone who wants an outstanding ride ! So – don’t be out off – I was talking to a hard out lady roadie last night at the lodge who had an awful day coming from the start of the track a pureoraend of the trail . She hated the steep downhill and told everyone – so some of our crew canned out – it wasnt

that bad – she just was a roadie ( last year at 65 rode cape reinga to bluff in 28 days ! ) just that some people haven’t heard of “ do something that scares you every day

One of a number of swing viaducts over deep valleys – this one you could fit a 15 story building under.
1800 year old giant Totora tree
Gorgeous huge podacarp forest
Sunny 🌞 warm day on the track
At 1000 meters
10 kms to go and out of the steep track and drops.

Day 31 Mangakino to Matamata 85 kms , 700 meters 4 hours 30

Today was a bash – so – straight hard out ride from early breakfast at 7am to try to meet the destination before the rain does . Forecast is for a “ rain dump” in this area , and bay of plenty region over the next 12-36 hours so best be done with biking early – so everyone got in for lunch – aaaaaah now rest day tomorrow before the push up to and through Auckland to the next and last rest day at mangawai heads .

But the best part 😀 Maree is arriving in Matamata – and with her new car – and rest day – ahhhhhj

day 33 Matamata to Marinda hot springs on the Hauraki. 100 💯 km ,100 meters, 4 hrs 30 mins !

Another hard out bash – no stops no coffee – to beat the afternoon rain . Grrrrrr.

Bitch of a ride into strong blustery NW wind ( we travelling NW eh ) – so pleased to arrive and everyone pretty stuffed – felt more like a 125 km ride and my garmin says I out put 3500 calories so that tells it . Early beer and soak in the hot pools while the rain settles on – ahhhh – a cure..

so – the people we have meet in the central NI from Tukino to Matamata are the most considerate and happy people we have been with on this whole trip- now why would that be – maybe it’s the rural life, cows, self employed , lack of civil servants and politicians ?

Haven’t had time for the last month to think about what jacinda and her crew are up to- probably no good – although it’s pretty clear now from what is happening with huge covid numbers in the rest of the world that the “ elimination “ strategy for nz worked and may just end up being less damaging on the economy and govt books than the second and third wave of lockdowns now going into place on Uk and Europe . it’s strange to see “ no masks in nz verses everyone even the USA republican now . donning and doffing them on Tv . Big issue is the 20 % annual increase in house prices – crazy ! So grant Robertson minister of finance decided to do a hospital pass to the governor or the reserve bank – so he has now 3 things to focus on inflation, employment, house prices – he said no thanks and waffled . Every government can’t find a solution – it’s easy – supply and demand . So bloody sidestep the council zoning and consenting bylaws by legislation, use govt land at nil cost , import thousands of high quality factory built homes from Japan and put them through housing corporation – radical solution is required – incremental will fail !

Maree was here in Matamata – Soooo good -we found the best restaurant of the whole trip and went there two nights – An Italian place with exceptional food -Ossetia – wow wish we had something like this in Nelson . Full marks .

She drove down her new Audi Q5 s line- a tonne of class just like the new owner 💋💋💋

Day 34 Miranda hot springs to Auckland . 60 kms, 500 meters, 3 hours biking time . Strong head winds again from the west but warm – so short off in the hills for the first time .Well part way – got picked up at Clevedon by Lena, Georgia, and Sophia to go and see the new goal – Milan – now a month old.

At the mount – class!

Now ridden 2200 kms and the end in sight – only a week to go with a rest day in a few days in mangawhai heads.

First sighting for Hauraki gulf – haven’t seen the seas since Whanganui in two weeks- now that’s worth thinking about – there must be a huge no of nzers that never see the sea from
Caught by Jim – hot as In the hills today so catching sun and cooling off
Georgia Sophia and little Milan at one month old

day 36 Auckland to parakai – 60 kms 700 meters 3 hours

Getting out of Auckland a bloody hassle .quiet to begin through central Auckland waterfront then through Glenn eden and mt Albert to eventually get into the cycle track beside the NW motorway ending at Westgate ( that “vortex “shopping mall that the westies love and everyone else hates to Hobsonville ) From there pretty much difficult very steep hill ride through to Helensville – dangerous on SH 16 with no shoulder on the road and muscle cars giving no distance – wow – Auckland drivers live up to their reputation as the most arrogant least bike friendly in the nation . So.couple of hills at 18% which had most of the crew on road bikes walking .

Everyone soooo pleased to finish in one piece a day to forget – except- the high point of the day – after breakfast at code on kohi v with Lena and the kids, Alice turned up to bike with us today . how about that !!!

Matt David and I ready for another big day on the bikes from Auckland

Day 37 Helensville to Mangawhai heads – 90 kms , 1400 meters climbing , 4 hours 30

We left early to try to beat the rain coming from the north into Mangawhai heads – and did – by getting to the wonderful Oasis cafe in mangawhai with30 mins before the downpour !

A cloudy day with some drizzle which kind of obscured the views of kaipara harbour – where the anti north port campaigners want to transfer the port of Auckland – must be crazy cos there are so many sharp hills for truck and trains to navigate – maybe the proponents should bike that coast to feel the leg burn and realise the problem – haha . Just imagine those civil servants on bikes climbing 16% hills of which there are so many -. Was brilliant to get to wellingford for coffee and lunch – and find the hills going east were no where near as steep .

Rest day here – aaaaaaah – before three big days the first over to the west at Dargaville. Now ridden about 2300 kms so will be 2700 at cape reinga – wow – hard to believe we are 5 days away now !

Alice and I at Helensville after ride from Auckland
Amazing horizon sculptures overlooking the kaipara harbour

Darling Maree and Anna looking f….kn gorgeous . heading out for marina s
birthday – take me please 😎

Day 38 mangawhai heads to Dargaville – 95 kms, 800 meters climbing . 4 hours 30

Great rest day in mangawhai heads – I really like the place but it will change – there is a proposal approved to do a 1000 section development there with commercial and retail big time ! It will end up destroying the place and producing another Auckland suburb with overwhelmed infrastructure and not enough water – as well as 2 hours wait at the boat ramp . Glad I know it as it was – traditional 1950 & 1960 bachs and great surfing .

There is another story – just before cyclone Bola ( would that be in the 80’s) there was a huge storm , which shifted the bar to the inland harbour and beach . The harbour entrance was blocked and with no tidal flow soon became putrid.the local regional council people say on their hand for months paralysised writing reports . A group of locals in the dead of night in a super low tide moving in 40 machines and opened the entrance up – god know what the bureaucracy thought when they drove past it next morning – then they raised money and bought a dredge which has keep the beautiful little harbour open – I meet a lady heading there to go fishing at 6am – so that says it’s hearthy . Don’t you love stories of people triumphant over red tape !

Sure hope the locals can stop the Auckland developers who come , destroy, make profit, leave !

Weather on the morning start from mangawhai head was crap ! Wet with strong South west wind gusting 50 kms plus – the first 60 kms either on the nose or worse on the side – Ray’s bike ahead was leaning at 75 degrees rather than 90 degrees at times trying to stay upright – not to worry – coke at Ruawai on the west coast and voila – the big wind is behind us and we roar into Dargaville with the last 45 kms averaging 30 +. It’s amazing how a tail wind and no pressure on the legs raises the spirits.

Forecast is for sun and no bloody wind for the ride through to Omapere- plus- Alice is coming to ride the day with us -yahhhhhhhh!

My favourite movie -Jake and Elwood – the blues brothers – 109 miles to Chicago …..got sunglasses ….. hit it!
Alice and I at Tane Mahuta – 2000 years old Kaura

Day 39 Dargaville to Omapere ( Hokiana harbour ) – 82 kms , 1400 meters climbing ,4 hours 30 mins ride time.

The best day of the tour – sunny and warm with gorgeous views and and ride through the spectacular wairoua kauri forest and visit to the 2000 year old “tane mahuta “ massive tree about 20 kms before reaching omapere. Also just before arriving at the delightful Copthorne hotel and old world place with genuine charm – we looked out over the views from the last hill across the sand and blue blue hokianga harbour.

Alice joined us for this ride which was fantastic – I drove her back to Dargaville over the route we took – made me realise the long day and hills climbed !

Just announced on sky tv the rollout of the the covid 29 vaccine – hope for return to normal – yippee 🙌 🌞 I am Having to watch sky tv cos “ play school “ on tv one breakfast program is so light and frivolous that it can’t be taken seriously – so much giggling it’s just sooooo awful ! God please can’t they just grow up ! I have heard that at TV one kms they program the content to appeal to an intellectual age of 10 – yes seriously ! Excruciating listening 👂😰

Ray and Alice overlooking fabulous Hokianga harbour
Alice n I at a real bar 😎 Copthorne Ompere on the Hokianga before driving back to Dargaville
Riding the wairoa kauri forest

Day 40 Omapere on Hokianga to Ahipara ( at the southern end of 90 mile beach ) – 95 kms ,1000 meters climbing , 4 hours 40 minutes ride time .

North land feels like it has zero flat land – it’s always climbing or descending ! Today started well with sunny warm skies through to the rawene ferry ⛴

Then for the last50 kms rain and cold westerly winds made arrival into Ahipara especially good – hot shower and into warm clothes in time for the sun to come out – for a hot late afternoon on the balcony overlooking the spectacular Tasman sea. Soooooo nice !

Bikers with electronic shifters will know about this – I forgot to check that there was enough battery power to drive the derailiers- and the telltail “ no shift “ on the front cog – so had to spin at max 25 kms per hour for the last 30 kms

Disaster is if both derailers stop and you are in the lowest gear both from and back ) you spin like hell and hardly move – come to think of it that’s what it must be like to be a highly educated backbencher in the nz parliament – “ spinning with great intentions but no power “ haha – I like that 👍. Got there but need to charge up tonight .

We are almost there – now only 2 days left to ride – it’s time to get home to my beautiful family – Maree and the boys – I miss them every hour of every day .

Hello Maree and savvy 💋
Boarding the little ferry at Rawene
Where we are headed north to cape reinga
Beautiful peaceful Hokianga Harbour – so remote – but great roads on the twin highways and zero traffic – no one lives here . Like one general store and one school in 50 kms 😎
End of day beer looking down on the southern end of 90 mile beach 🏝
Home soon Boycey ❤️

Day 41 Ahipara to Pukenui ( which is half way up 90 mile beach but on the east coast – there is only about 10 kms from east to west coast here) . So a quiet day which we really needed after the 100 km/1000 + meter climbing days we have been having ! we have biked about 2700kms and climbed 27,000 meters so far with one day to go – end in sight – yah

So – today was 65 kms , 500 meters and 3 hours through cattle , dairy, and huge new areas of 🥑 avocados plantations.Weather cloudy and grey but some sun to brighten us up late in the day .

At bar after arrival in pukenui ( ah – there is only one bar!) . So background on some unusual guys. Far left – Matt ( lawyer but will never admit it – one of the group reckons he is an undercover cop – he apparently made a fortune somehow a few years ago and doesn’t work . Completing this year from a start in 1985 his masters in art history and renaissance painting),

Next to him Todd Heller – started as a half share in an MMM butchers shop in new Brighton about 1970 – has built the Hellers empire and most well known brand of processed meat and deli in NZ – recently sold down to private equity but still heavily involved – now big in Australian chicken business as well – Todd has a huge laugh and can tell and get away with seriously dirty jokes:
Next to the left of him DavidOrange from Nelson ( successful builder and land developer – really good guy and genuinely goes out of his way to help people
Next to him Tony Beard was once a top medical guy ( pathology and medical labs ), now not working cos he made a fortune on a deal some years ago in conjunction with an Aussie pharmaceutical supply company to steal the Auckland DHB contact for supply from a NZ incumbent- got the impression it was dodgy- haha .

Day 42 final day push from pukenui to Cape Reinga – 70 kms ,1100 meters climbing , 3 hours 30 ride time ( I had forgotten how many bloody hills there were from pukenui- there are sooooo many climbs- .f….n lots). Highlight of the day – finally arriving and celebration in the rain with beer and bubbly.

Heavy overhead cloud from the start and then rain just as we arrived at Cape Reinga to pack up the bikes and gear and get the shuttle back to Pukenui – and then the sun came out for a lovely afternoon not biking !!! Was a relief to finally get there and realise that for the first time in 6 weeks we could pack up the bike and gear and not get in the saddle tomorrow – in a strange way I will miss it – maybe I talk about that later – it’s the isolation and no responsibility but getting to the end of that days ride! Later when I sign off !

Looking out to the Pacific ocean with the Tasman on the left by 10 kms
Jim from wangarei- loves his family and his bike in equal measure!
Chris from Wangarei and Jim’s mate – financial planner retired – interesting guy !
Finally at Cape Reinga .
Yeeeees
Ralph and Simone open the champagne 🥂
Final group pic with the Cape lighthouse in the background – 25 riders of which about half did the whole 2800 kms from bluff and of those 6 of us made it on road bikes ( John and Anna , Chris,Jim, Alan,Craig)
. The others on ebikes or north island only – yehhhhhh.

It’s time for sign off of this blog but some short takeouts from these 42 days.

1. Cycling – it’s a wonderful way to see beautiful NZ. 2800 kilometres riding ( distance of Nelson to Sydney and half way back) and climbing 28,000 meters ( 8 times up Mt Cook ) is a challenge but – it’s worth doing for everyone ! – but downside is 6 weeks away from Darling Maree and the boys😰

2.Biggest challenge – NZ spring weather with some gale force NW winds and a week of rain in the west coast ( November is not hot and sunny – few days were warm and only one shirt off sunny day ) – plus- some terrifying and dangerous roads and driving , mostly from the huge truck and trailer monsters ( like frontera) that suck you first into them them blow you sideways as they pass over the shoulder into what’s there when the tar seal runs out )- NZ roads are dangerous for cycling , with most not having a half meter shoulder left of seal from the left of white line ,plus no mandatory 1.5 meter gap for passing vehicles as they gave in South Australia-and Ireland. If you frighten easily don’t do it !

3.People – in a tour like this you get thrown into together with people from very diverse backgrounds and experiences- but – after a while as we all battle to get there and overcome problems the group comes togrther.- like a team relying on each other.

Jacinda politicised the word “ kind” and ruined it ! My old dad would say “ kindness costs you nothing “ and that’s true on these cycling tours amongst the people.

4. Alone – you spend a lot of time alone as the group splits up to bike and climb – as a result you get sooooo much thinking time .

5.Ralph and Simone – so I have been on probably 25 bike trips with Ralph – and when covid shut down overseas travel I suggested we do the” tour d Aotearoa. “ Ralph and Simone picked up the ball and did it differently without guides and open book with only a small admin cost to keep the overall cost down.The result after a huge amount of work – a great tour.

Ralph often comes in for criticism- mostly I find from people who expect a 5 star service from a 2 star price.Yes at times Ralph can be “ Jack blunt “or offhand – women particular feel this whereas guys just suck it up . “ shit happens “ everyday as the unexpected come up, people get lost, accomodation is a bit dodgy……. and that’s part of the adventure ! But for me without Ralph’s skills and organisation, I just wouldn’t have seen the amazing things, had amazing experiences , or meet the amazing people I have all over the world – as Richie McCaw

would say – Full credit , to Ralph and his team ! So that’s it from me till the next big ride 😎